Besides the fact that you can cover more land in less time, our product management team shared the top 10 benefits of our stand-on zero-turn selection.

1. Mowing Efficiency

With greater traction and maneuverable ease when it comes to obstacles, landscaping companies have shown increased efficiency with stand-on mowers, meaning more acres mowed in less time. One large factor that improves mowing time is the ability to mount and dismount the machine quickly when needing to move obstacles.

2. Compact

One of the biggest benefits of a stand-on mower is the all-around size. Stand-on units are great for 180º turns and tight spaces, making them the perfect machines for tree-filled or heavily landscaped yards.

Not to mention the shape, compact size, and shorter height of these mowers with no roll-over protective structure (ROPS) creates more room on a trailer or in a garage for other equipment.

3. Handling Ease

On a stand-on mower, you may find it easier to start and stop with each turn because the operator and engine are closer to each other and this results in less movement and momentum when changing directions, making it easier to handle tight turns.

4. Slope Traction

Safety is a key factor when it come to choosing the right mower because at some point, you’ll be mowing hilly terrain. Stand-on mowers allow you the ability to shift your weight to counter the slops effortlessly to keep you and the mower in a safe position while having an improved center of gravity. This enhances the overall ability to hold the machine on steep terrain.

5. Stability

Our stand-on mowers are built with a low center of gravity for a more stable and safer cutting experience. This design lowers the risk of tipping and gives better traction when mowing on uneven or rough terrain.

6. Visual Range

Mowing in the stand-up position allows you the advantage of full visibility. This way you’re able to see everything that surrounds you while mowing and can easily maneuver as needed.

7. Low Clearance Ability

Contrary to what you may think, stand-on machines give you the ability to cut grass under objects with a low clearance such as tree branches or other obstacles because there are no ROPS to increase the height of the machine and you can duck down to continue mowing without harming efficiency.

8. Quick Exit

In the case of an emergency, stand-on mowers are top-notch when it comes to getting off the machine. These units have a quick exit strategy if you ever need to jump off for safety reasons. Just as you can exit with ease, you can also hop back on in no time and continue the job.

9. Rider Comfort

The position you mow can have an impact on your body, especially when mowing for multiple hours per day. These mowers use your leg muscles and feet as a shock absorber to lessen the strain on your lower back.

10. Walk-Behind Ability

Our flip-up suspension platform gives you the opportunity to easily transition from a stand-on mower to a walk-behind machine when loading onto a trailer, mowing on slopes, or when you simply need to get some steps in. No matter the reason, this is an exclusive feature to Gravely.

Stand-on machines serve a great purpose in the green industry, between comfort and compact size, to the efficiency and safety of the mower, our stand-on units are the perfect addition to your lawn care equipment arsenal.

To view our entire collection of stand-on mowers, ARROW Series stand-on mower and ARROW E Series battery stand-on mower.

You can also find your local Ariens dealer today with our dealer search.

Experienced homeowners know that it takes more than mowing the grass to get a lawn with curb appeal.

A healthy, beautiful lawn requires regular care and maintenance, but overdoing it can quickly burn up your lawn and your free time.

Whether you’re new to lawn care of just trying to get your lawn in the best shape possible, you’ve come to the right place because we’re here to answer some of the most popular lawn care questions we see people asking. So, with that, below is a breakdown of when to do what when it comes to lawn care.

This depends on a few factors, including the type of grass you have, the climate in your area, and the time of year. Most lawns should be mowed at least once a week during the growing season, which is typically from late spring to early fall. When the grass grows rapidly, like after long stretches of rainy weather or during early spring, you may need to cut the lawn more often.

When you mow, try to cut your grass roughly 3 inches tall because this keeps the lawn from getting “scalped”, or mowed down to the point where it struggles to grow back. Keeping grass at around 3 inches tall will also prevent the grass from growing too much and getting out of control. Taller grass needs more nutrients to stay healthy, which can be an issue for yards that aren’t in nutrient-rich environments.

Mowing your lawn at the right height and frequency is a crucial part of maintaining a healthy lawn. The general rule of thumb is to remove no more than one-third of the grass blade at a time. This gives the lawn some time to repair after each mow because cutting it can be stressful for the grass.

In fact, the smell of “fresh cut grass” is actually the result of chemicals being released when the lawn’s in distress or in the process of healing itself. But, leaving the lawn unchecked can also cause damage. Plus, we all love the smell of a new cut yard. The key is maintaining a balance between an overgrown and a scalped lawn.

The best time to fertilize your lawn is in the spring, before the grass begins to grow rapidly. This gives your yard all the nutrients it needs to thrive as the weather warms up. It also helps to stop other plants from overgrowing your grass and killing portions of your lawn. The last thing you want is a patchy lawn.

Now, if you live somewhere with cold winters, you should also fertilize your lawn again in the fall before the cold spell strikes. When temperatures drop near or below freezing, grass will stop growing and become dormant to conserve what nutrients it can to survive the cold and less intense sunlight. When you fertilize before winter, this puts more nutrients into the soil for the grass to use.

Keep in mind that when you fertilize, be sure to use a fertilizer that’s specifically formulated for lawns.

Watering your lawn deeply and infrequently is the best way to promote healthy root growth. Even in drier climates, lawns don’t require more than an inch of water three times per week. In fact, grass in drier climates is well-prepared to survive with less water than in other environments.

Overwatering can cause your lawn to become dependent on regular watering instead of developing its own strong, effective root system. That can cause all kinds of problems, as it makes your lawn much more vulnerable to disease and shifts in climate patterns.

The best time to water your lawn, if needed, is early in the morning because that gives the water time to soak into the soil before it evaporates under the hot sun.

If you want to go above and beyond when it comes to lawn maintenance, here are a few other bonus tips to help you have the best yard in town.

Aerating
Aeration involves removing small plugs of soil from your lawn, which allows water, air, and nutrients to penetrate the soil easier. This can be done manually, with a manual aerator, or with a powered aerator. Typically, you’ll want to do this once a year, either in spring when the grass is just starting to grow or just before the end of fall prior to the grass going dormant.

Disease and Pest Control
If you notice any unusually colored or wilting lawn, it may be a sign of a disease or pest problem. Be sure to take care of the issue right away because the sooner it’s handled, the better the results will be.

You can either consult with lawn care professionals or purchase a product to help depending on what the issue is. Either way, make sure to use non-toxic treatments that won’t hurt any children or pets that’ll be in the treated area.

Seeding
Lastly, overseeding and reseeding your lawn can help to improve the overall health and appearance. This can be done once in the spring or fall, depending on your climate.

When overseeding, you should use a high-quality seed that’s made specifically for your area. Luckily, it’s a pretty simple process. Spread the seed evenly across the lawn using a broadcast spreader and once that’s done, make sure to keep it watered until the new grass establishes itself.

This may seem like a lot to take care of, but with the right mower and an understanding of the maintenance needed for a healthy lawn, you’ll have a yard you can be proud of in no time.

At some point, every homeowner will look out over a dewy or rain-soaked lawn and wonder if they can still get their mowing done.

Sure, it’ll be a slower mow – but what harm could it do to cut the grass when it’s wet?

Actually, more than you might think. Mowing your lawn when it’s wet can have several negative effects, including vulnerability to disease and other downfalls. Apart from the lawn being more difficult to mow, it’s always better to wait until things dry out for your lawn’s sake.

These are just some of the ways grass becomes more susceptible to damage and other dangers when wet, so let’s jump right in. Here’s why we don’t advise mowing a wet lawn.

Compaction
When the grass is wet, it gets compacted or pressed together with dirt and other grass blades much easier than when it’s dry. This can lead to many problems, including poor drainage, shallow root growth, and an increased susceptibility to disease.

When soil particles are tightly packed together, it makes it more difficult for water, air and nutrients to reach the roots of the grass, which can lead to a decline in the overall health of your lawn.

Disease
Another reason to avoid mowing a wet lawn is disease. Wet grass is prone to fungal infections and other diseases, which can spread across the lawn rapidly if the grass is cut before it has a chance to dry. This can lead to brown patches, discoloration, and other signs of an unhealthy lawn.

Clumping
Mowing a wet lawn can also cause the grass clippings to clump together, which is never a good thing. These clumps can make it tough for sunlight and air to reach the roots of the grass, resulting in brown patches, and like the reasons above, it can also make your yard more susceptible to disease.

Safety
Safety is another issue as wet grass can be deceptively slippery and uneven, making your mower harder to control. This can increase the risk of accidents such as falling, and no one needs that experience when trying to have a freshly cut lawn.

Damage to Your Mower
Wet grass can also easily clog your mower’s blades, which can lead to rusting and other damage. Aside from making for an irritating mow, this can be costly to fix and can lead to a decline in the performance of your mower, leaving you with a less than ideal lawn care experience.

Overall, the bottom line is that it’s best to avoid mowing a wet lawn. The smartest choice is to take some time and wait until the sun’s shining and the lawn’s dry before mowing to help promote healthy growth, reduce the risk of an unhealthy or diseased yard, and make the task safer and more efficient.

Check out the rest of our blogs for more helpful tips and tricks.

When you’re a first-time homeowner, it’s easy to make mistakes when taking care of your lawn because there’s a lot to learn, especially for those who’ve never lived in a house with a yard.

Even seasoned homeowners struggle to maintain a lush, green lawn of their dreams.

Often, what seems like a bit of extra TLC for your lawn is harmful to the grass. Thankfully, we’re here to highlight some of the most common lawn care mistakes for green and veteran homeowners, along with tips on how to avoid them this year.

Owning a home can be costly. It’s only natural that homeowners try to cut costs where they can, but lawn maintenance isn’t the best place to trim the budget. Many new homeowners, especially those buying large lawns, purchase mowers with too little power to suit their needs. Using an inadequate mower can add many frustrating hours to your lawn care routine.

On the other hand, buying a massive riding mower for a smaller lawn only adds extra cost and maintenance to an otherwise simple task. The key is to find enough power without buying too much.

All mowers require regular maintenance, which some homeowners may not realize. Ideally, mower blades should be sharpened or replaced each season, oil should be changed each year, and all components should be checked for wear.

Another maintenance tip to keep in mind is to empty the gas tank before long-term storage so the gas lines don’t fill with condensation in the off-season. Skipping this step can result in a very, very rough first mow, or even a mower that won’t start.

If you don’t feel comfortable doing regular maintenance on your own, get in the habit of bringing your mower in for service before spring hits. That way you avoid the rush of other lawnmower-owners trying to get ready for the upcoming season.

You can find an Ariens dealer in your area here.

It’s tempting to cut the lawn as short as possible to stretch the time between mows. Some also prefer the aesthetic of a very short, neatly trimmed lawn.

It’s important to remember that mowing the lawn is, to grass, like receiving a wound. Grass needs some time to heal after being mown, so the shorter you mow, the longer that recovery time becomes. Mowing too much of the blade at one time can stop that recovery from happening at all.

Cutting more than 1/3 of the grass blade in one mow can cause the blade to (seriously) go into shock, compromising its ability to absorb sunlight. That can cascade into root damage for broader areas of your lawn, which will be more difficult to recover from as nutrients may not flow to the grass as readily.

It’s generally advised to keep your lawn longer than 2.5 inches tall at a minimum. The 1/3 rule is the most important guideline, as any more can be too much for grass to recover from.

It might seem counterintuitive, but more water isn’t always the best idea for your lawn as watering daily can have an adverse effect on your grass.

The more frequently you water, the more dependent the lawn becomes on you providing it with water and the grass won’t develop a root system capable of properly storing and allocating water. You can help grass build these roots by watering, at most, three times per week, and only during long periods of dry weather.

The best way to get the most out of each watering is to water your lawn in the morning, preferably before 10 a.m. This gives the lawn time to absorb the water and dry before losing water to evaporation under the summer sun. The sweet spot is to aim for enough water to coat the ground, but not so much that you see standing puddles.

Fertilizing can help the grass absorb the nutrients it needs and grow tall enough to overwhelm weeds and other unwanted plants. But used incorrectly, it can cause significant harm to lawns, or even help weeds grow and spread.

Using too much fertilizer, for example, can stimulate leaf growth in grass while stunting the growth of healthy roots. A lawn’s roots are essential to its survival, absorbing the nutrients that grass needs to thrive. Poorly developed roots may not be able to sustain the larger leaf, potentially causing the grass to die.

Fertilizer does best when applied during growth seasons, not dormant ones. The grass needs to take in more nutrients to sustain the increased growth caused by fertilizer, which is possible in the summer when the sun is shining, and temperatures are right. But in dormant periods, the grass will need regular watering just to account for its own growth.

As a rule of thumb, aim to fertilize once in late spring and once in late summer.

Don’t worry, we all make mistakes sometimes when it comes to lawn care but following these tips will help you have the best looking lawn in town this summer.

It’s war out there. It’s ‘survival of the fittest’ and your lawn must compete against hundreds of other organisms all fighting for space, light, water and nutrients.

Okay… it’s a bit of dramatic opening to a story on moss, but the point is this: you need to give your lawn a fighting chance if you want it to win the battle. If moss is rampant, then treat it as a sign that your lawn is lacking what it needs and is ultimately losing the war. Removing the moss is not enough on its own. It WILL come back.

Pull on your gardening boots, grab a jacket (and a torch if it’s nighttime) and go for a short walk to where the moss is most prolific. Check to see if any of these conditions are true – even one of them could be causing the problem.

• Is the affected area covered by shade?
  If your grass plant does not receive enough light, it may be weakened and bullied into submission by the more dominant moss
• Is the area in a natural basin of the garden?
  Most lawns are not flat so water may run and collect in pools. This is not good for grass – but excellent news for moss
• How short is the grass?
  Mowing your grass too short can weaken it, especially when the plant is under stress

Now that you have identified the possible causes of the moss, it’s time to remove it from the lawn. For a smaller area, a simple lawn rake will suffice. For large lawns, use a powered scarifier (either attach it to your zero-turn ride-on mower or hire a walk-behind unit from your local hire shop). You can afford to be quite rigorous here – just make sure you rake out as much moss as possible. If the moss is severe, consider using a chemical killer. Consult with your garden centre on the best option for you. There are organic alternatives available.

Word of warning:
If the moss is prevalent, removing it will leave a bare patch behind – DONT PANIC!
This bare patch was always present – it was just previously green with moss. Follow ‘Step 3’ and your grass can return greener and healthier than before.

Now that the moss has been removed from the grass, you may be tempted to put your feet up. First, you need to change the conditions in your lawn to help your grass grow back healthy and strong.

• Spike your lawn
  Use a garden fork to spike your lawn. Again, there are tow-behind options for ride-on lawn mowers or powered walk-behind units you can hire. This process achieves two things. Firstly, it reduces The soil becomes looser and air can reach the roots of the grass plant. Secondly, it improves drainage. Water will drain away quicker. This improves growing conditions for your grass and makes life difficult for moss.
• If possible, reduce the amount of shade on the affected area
  All gardens are different, but this might mean pruning back a hedge or removing a limb from a tree – use a chainsaw, hedgetrimmer or powered pruner as appropriate. In some cases, it’s as simple as moving a child’s trampoline or climbing frame.
• Feed the lawn
  When did you last treat your lawn to a good meal? Regular feeding in spring or in the early part of summer will give the grass the nutrients it needs to grow. Talk to your local garden centre about suitable weed and feed products
• Change your mowing habits
  Cutting too short can cause stress to the grass plant, especially if the weather is extremely wet or dry. Have the blades on your lawnmower set too low and you could be in danger of scalping the grass. This will leave bald patches that can be infiltrated by moss. Little and often is the trick. Look at the height setting on your lawnmower. If it’s set too low, raise it up by a couple of settings.
• If you mulch mow, consider collecting the grass clippings instead. Otherwise using a good mulching mower is essential. A poorly performing mulching cutter deck may leave long clippings on the lawn. This can contribute to a mat of grass material, called thatch forming above the roots. Thatch can prevent light and water from reaching the roots of the grass.
• Consider applying a top dressing to the lawn
  This will help stimulate new grass shoots and, over time, will begin to level out the lawn and remove any dips.

Ask lawn experts to give you their ‘top tip’ for a healthy, green lawn and often they will cite scarification.

But what is scarification and why is it necessary?

One of the main reasons for a yellowing, spongy, patchy lawn is thatch. Living and dead stems, roots, rhizomes and stolons from the grass plant build up a thick intermingling layer between the grass tops and the soil. This inhibits the plant’s ability to absorb water, nutrients and air at the roots. Your lawn can become prone to disease and insect damage and is much less responsive to fertilizers and requires heavier watering to keep it alive. Thick, sodden thatch can provide the perfect growing conditions for moss. If left untreated thatch can kill large patches of your lawn.

During the main growing season, the grass plants are growing faster than the old grass stems are decomposing. This new growth pushes up through the layer of old stems creating a mat of thatch. Even with the best collection system, thatch still builds up from the natural decomposition of the plants, and scarifying is required at least twice a year.

Scarifier has specially designed tines that rotate at high-speed teasing the thatch and moss from the bed of your lawn. The angle and shape of the blades ensure that healthy grass plants are left intact, whilst unwanted material is thrown up to the surface of the lawn ready for collection. The scarifying tines also gently disturb the soil surface allowing oxygen to the roots of the plants and help reduce lawn compaction.

Immediately after scarification has taken place, the grass can look bare and scalped, this simply illustrates the damage that the thatch had caused to the healthy shoots. After a short period, with the grass receiving the required moisture, oxygen and nutrients, the lawn grows back thicker, healthier and greener with reduced moss and weeds.

Regular aeration with an aerator, slitter or spiker will further ensure that compaction is reduced, and oxygen levels maintained.

Lawns that are looking a bit thin with weak growth could do with a light dressing of fertiliser. At this time of year you do need to ensure you have the right, low nutrient ratios of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. You don’t want more than 10% Nitrogen in the mix. Tomato or rose fertiliser applied evenly make a good tonic for the lawn or you could splash out on a turf conditioner.

To help green up the lawn that’s scorched and patchy, exposing thatch and irrigating heavily and infrequently will help the plant develop a strong root system. Watering once a week to ten days is enough providing it’s thorough. If you use a sprinkler, an area of one square metre/sq. yard needs about 20 litres/4½ gallons of water every seven days. For an average hosepipe sprinkler that means about 12 minutes of sprinkling is sufficient for an area of 9 sq metres or about 95 to 100 sq feet. Use a trowel to lift the turf and dig a small test hole after watering. You want a 10cm/4” depth of water penetration.

One of the most common questions we get about lawn care is “When is the best time to mow my lawn?”

It can be a tricky chore to fit into a busy schedule, as plenty of homeowners will tell you (especially those with large lawns). While it’d be nice to have some flexibility, the fact is that certain times of day are better for mowing than others.

That isn’t to say your lawn is doomed if you occasionally mow during off hours, but if you want a lawn that looks its absolute best, there are optimal times to mow, so let’s dive in

Throughout the day, the grass in your lawn goes through several different processes and without getting too scientific, mowing the lawn while the grass is either wet or trying to protect itself from the day’s heat can make post-mow recovery more difficult for the grass.

When you’re trying to find the best time to mow, it helps to understand what’s happening at different times of the day. So, let’s take a second to see what a day in the life of your lawn looks like.

6:00 A.M.-8:00 A.M.
As you’re waking up for work, grass often starts a summer day coated in dew. The cool, night air warms with the sunrise and creates condensation, leaving the lawn wet. Mowing a wet lawn is not ideal for lawn health, as it creates conditions that can lead to disease in grass. You can learn more about mowing a wet lawn here.

8:00 A.M-10:00 A.M. AKA: The Best Time to Mow
By this time, the dew normally evaporates while the sun rises, meaning that the grass is growing healthy without being exposed to too much heat. That makes this the best time of the day to mow. The lawn will have a full day to absorb nutrients, recover from the mow, and keep on growing.

10:00 A.M.-4:00 P.M.
This time of day can be tricky because if it gets particularly hot, or if the grass can’t get the water or nutrients it needs, it’ll go dormant. In these conditions, grass hibernates during the day to try and stay healthy, making it much weaker than normal, which can impact growth.

Put simply, if it’s too hot for you to mow without sweating through your shirt, it’s too hot for your lawn as well.

4:00 P.M-6:00 P.M.
In the evening, cooler air allows grass to leave its dormant state and start absorbing nutrients again. That primes the grass for growth immediately after the mow and on dry days, grass will be thoroughly dry by this time, which is good for mowing. So, if the mid-morning window doesn’t work for you, the early evening is your next-best option.

The Basic Rule of Thumb: Try to avoid mowing if your lawn is either very wet or very dry.
Either one can cause damage to the lawn and compromise its health.

But in the end, if you want a more definitive answer, the best time to mow is between 8:00 A.M. and 10:00 A.M., with a close second being the early evening between 4:00 P.M. and 6:00 P.M. Happy mowing!

A lawn with a high percentage of rye grass–Lolium, or bent grass–Agrostis, needs more frequent application. For most of us, our lawns need just one application of a complete fertiliser containing the main foods the grass needs. These are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). However, a lawn that has to endure high levels of wear through the year may require more frequent applications of fertiliser, say, in spring then autumn.

Soil type is another consideration, with grass on very sandy soil needing two to four light applications a year. For clay loam, silt loam and organic, it’s one or two light applications. In spring, once the grass is becoming active, it is the time to apply fertiliser but not too early in the spring as that can encourage disease.

For the lawn with a lot of moss and thatch, you may choose a 4-in-one fertiliser, weed and moss killer such as Evergreen 4-in-one. Once the treatment becomes effective, you will need to rake out moss and thatch or scarify with the cassette on the garden tractor or mower or use a walk-behind scarifier/aerator. This is likely to leave bare patches which will need seeding with a good grass seed and overseeding for larger areas.