Lawn Care Tips in Winter
Lawn Care Tasks in December
Neat and trim but not too short
While it is nicer to see the lawn through the winter neatly cut, it should not be manicured within an inch of its life. If the grass has still been growing through an unseasonably warm November, it may need that last cut in December, but not too short. The height of winter cut should be 20 to 25 mm for a leisure lawn, 25 mm + for a utility lawn, and 12 to 18 mm for an ornamental lawn. That will help the grass develop a good root system to combat wear.
Avoid walking on the grass if you can in frosty and snowy conditions. Note the light levels on the lawn because shade will affect its growth. Cut back anything causing shade if you can, now or in the new year. Remove debris, fallen leaves and brush out worm casts if it’s not too wet because they promote weed and moss growth. If you are planning a new lawn area for seeding or turfing next spring and the ground is not too hard, it’s a good time to deep dig, rake and level the plot, removing weeds as you go.
The winter frosts will break down the soil, making it more friable for when you come to sow seed or lay turves. Finish up by cleaning the garden tractor or mower and other tools, getting machinery serviced and stored in dry conditions ready for a new season.
Lawn Care tasks in January
The answer lies in the soil
It’s very unlikely you will be mowing the lawn this month but the mowing season is not far off, especially if the winter turns out mild. If you haven’t already done so it’s a good time to get the garden tractor or mower serviced in readiness.
There are a few other jobs needing your attention to help prepare the lawn for spring. Make a note of where any water lies on the grass after heavy rain or when snow thaws.
Lawns that are sitting on heavy clay or compacted soil are particularly susceptible to becoming waterlogged. You can relieve this by aerating using a hollow tined fork or garden fork to spike the grass. Do this at intervals of 15 – 20 cm (6 to 8 in) across the area to be treated. You can fill the holes with a mix of sharp sand and loam.
Sweeping up leaves and other debris is important for the health of the lawn and this action will also get rid of worm casts which lead to weeds and moss getting a hold.
Try to avoid walking on the lawn if it is frosty. The grass will blacken with ‘frost-burn’ damaging the cells and even causing it to die back. Keep a lookout for any signs of disease and treat the grass accordingly.
Lawn Care Tasks in February
Dressed to kill moss
It’s likely the grass has started into growth as the temperature rises and instead of stepping out onto hard ground, the lawn feels spongy underfoot. Further exploration tells you there is a considerable amount of moss choking the grass and spreading alarmingly.
Moss produces spores that are very effective in gaining new territory and they need to be stopped. Usually, the time to take action would be to use a four-in-one weed and feed at the end of March into April and that’s fine, but it is also time to consider what is causing the moss and allowing it to spread. Killing it in spring may be only a temporary solution because the root cause is what needs addressing, and that is likely to be compaction and lack of drainage on the lawn.
If the weather permits a going over with a walk behind a self-propelled aerator or one towed by the garden tractor will open up the surface to let air and water get to the grass roots. Good drainage will help overcome the sponginess, but the moss still needs treating.
If you don’t like the unsightly black mess left by moss killers there is a product we have talked about before. MO Bacter is an organic fertiliser that actually digests moss without leaving the black residue. You apply the product from the end of the month into March onwards. That will lead neatly into scarifying the lawn in spring when it has dried out enough to remove thatch and the last of the moss. Once all your preparation is done, you will be able to overseed and top dress for the best results.
